18 microns? 20 microns? 30? Wool ratings can feel like a foreign language if you're unfamiliar with what the numbers mean when shopping for wool yarns or fiber. So, if you've ever felt like you're just smiling and nodding hoping you hear something familiar like 'softer' or 'more durable,' you are not alone! Fortunately, here at the Mill House, we have your back and can clear up some of the mystery and make your sustainable shopping experience much more pleasant.
What Are Wool Ratings and How They Affect Wool Quality
If microns sound like something you heard about once in a high school science class, you're probably not wrong. A micron is a unit of measurement equal to one millionth of a meter or one twenty-six thousandth of an inch. It is so tiny, the measurement is typically only used for objects visible and measurable with the help of a microscope. In the case of wool ratings and wool grades, it refers to the thickness of a single strand of wool.
These measurements are used to maintain a standard of quality through wool products in the US. While you'll probably never hear the USDA's Agricultural Marketing Services Wool Grades and Standards terminology, it is the standard that determines how your wools are graded and if you are told whether your fiber is "22.2 micron wool" or 24 microns and so on. Each measurement has a standard deviation maximum that the yarn or fiber top cannot exceed for consistency. These ratings help you feel assured that your purchase will be just as soft, durable yet non-irritating, or as hardy as you need it to be for your project.
Understanding Wool Quality Grades- Are Lower Micron Counts Softer?
So now that the biggest mystery has been cleared up- the how and the why- we can get to the best part of the grading system. What it really means for you, the consumer, and the ever-burning question: but which wool actually makes soft yarn?
We are so glad you asked. Wool quality is best explained by shepherds, if you've been among those fortunate enough to have a chat with one. They'll happily tell you about their yearlings up for a shear and how excited they are for their best wool of the year because yearling wool is the finest a sheep will ever grow.
Yes, that's really all there is to it- no double meaning or dramatics. Yearling wool is quite literally finer in thickness than older sheep, giving the fleece a lower micron count than elder herd members'. Lower micron wools are softer, and less likely to cause skin irritation to those with sensitive skin, than higher micron wools. For example, you might use something in a super soft, almost luxurious, 17-20 microns for wearing close to the skin. Meanwhile, 24-micron yarn can be considered soft without being scratchy, but still durable enough for a sweater or other outerwear.
Wool with Personality- Match Quality & Wool Ratings to Your Lifestyle
What are microns? How do they work? Which micron counts are softest? All of these questions have been answered, and we can come back around directly to you. We know many of you wanted to know all about soft yarns for sensitive skin or other projects, but there are always more reasons to delve into the world of wool. So, what wool fits you? Think about your next project or two, maybe what you like to do, and what you need.
Are you the outdoorsy type needing reliable socks and a sturdy blanket?
Try looking for a 22-24 micron wool or wool mix in superwash for your socks and a 30+ micron wool to knit and/or felt for your outdoor blanket.
Are you environmentally conscious looking for top to spin up yarn that will last with little negative impact or that may biodegrade safely?
You could try something like our undyed Rodanthe top or another 100% wool, non-superwash fiber to use with natural dyes or leave it's natural, gorgeous cream hue. Superwash wool may also be an option for mindful parents or others who need to wash finished items quickly without worry of felting or shrinking. Also- while wool has been our main focus, we'd also like to highlight fibers like bamboo, alpaca, Tencel, cotton, and some sustainably sourced silk/silk blends are all environmentally conscious fibers for the mindful spinner, dyer, and crafter.
Do you want to leave a family heirloom behind- a baby blanket or wedding shawl to pass down for generations?
Go for something in the 20–22-micron range for softness and durability. Superwash, like one of our Merino blends, can be good if you're worried about stains or felting. Non-superwash yarns, undyed or dyed like our 100% Merino in DK, can be great for pieces that can be kept safe and hand washed or if you're more worried about environmental impact.
Key Takeaways on Wool Ratings, Quality, and Sustainable Shopping
Let's take a look at the main breakdown of this rather hefty chunk of information:
- Microns are the units used to measure the thickness of a strand of wool.
- Wool grades or Wool Ratings use these micron measurements to ensure batches of wool used to make roving and yarn meet the standard deviation or better for their micron counts so you can trust that what your buying is reliable and consistent.
- When looking for softness or considering sensitive skin- lower micron counts are key!
- Don't forget to keep YOU in the equation! We love making soft, squishable things, but sometimes our lives need other things, and wool can be with us in lockstep for most of it. We just have to choose the right kind- even if the right kind is thicker or more rugged, blended, or treated.
Shop Sustainable Yarn from Meridian Mill House
Meridian Mill House takes pride in its place in the ecosystem of the American mills and fiber arts. All of our wool and cotton is American sourced and American milled. We do our best to source what we can from within the US to help our community regrow, survive, and thrive. This means we at the Mill House are more than happy to provide you with sustainable yarns and fibers in a way and at a cost that is also more sustainable to you.
From our soft, durable wools- many sourced from the amazing, Responsible Wool Certified Shaniko Wool Company- to our Tencel yarns, and our beautiful, variegated cotton boucle, we offer a variety of sustainable and environmentally friendly options to makers of all kinds. We also offer plenty of natural, undyed options for those looking for natural colors or to dye the fiber or yarns themselves. Whatever you're looking for, we're happy to help!
If you have any questions about this article- or have a question you might like to see an article about in the future- please leave a comment below! We'd love to hear your thoughts!
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